You have surely come across this mysterious word while looking for your silk pillowcase: momme. 19 mommes, 22 mommes, 30 mommes... Behind this somewhat obscure term lies the most important information for evaluating the quality of silk, far more telling than marketing promises. If you were to remember only one criterion before buying, this would be it.

So, what exactly is a momme, and why is a 30-momme pillowcase completely different from a 19-momme one? We’ll explain everything.

Momme, the unit of measurement for silk

The momme (pronounced "mommy," abbreviated as "mm") is a unit of weight of Japanese origin, used for centuries in the silk trade. It measures the density of the fabric: concretely, the higher the number, the more silk threads the weave contains per square centimeter, and the denser, thicker, and more resistant the fabric is.

To give you an idea, one momme is equivalent to approximately 4.3 grams per square meter. A 22-momme silk therefore weighs nearly 95 g/m², while a 30-momme silk reaches about 130 g/m², which is nearly 40% more material in the same square meter of fabric.

It is the equivalent, if you will, of the thread count for cotton bed linen or carats for gold: an objective, numerical benchmark that is impossible to fake.

What fabric weight changes in practical terms

Durability

This is the most tangible difference. A low-weight silk (less than 19 mommes) is thin, almost transparent in places, and wears out quickly: it wrinkles, loses its shape, and can tear at the seams after a few months of washing. A 22-momme silk already offers good resistance for daily use. At 30 mommes, we enter a different category: a dense fabric that lasts for years without weakening, wash after wash.

Touch and drape

The higher the weight, the more the hand of the fabric changes. A 22-momme silk is fluid, light, and airy. A 30-momme silk is more substantial: heavier, more enveloping, with that weighted drape found in haute couture. To the touch, the difference is immediate; it is the sensation of a full material, almost creamy under your fingers.

Opacity and luster

A dense silk lets in less light and offers a deeper, more uniform luster. Light silks can present areas of transparency and a more superficial shine. On a sleep mask, opacity is not just an aesthetic matter: it is what guarantees total darkness.

Benefits for skin and hair

The virtues of silk—anti-friction glide, moisture retention, thermoregulation—are present from 19 mommes, provided it is genuine mulberry silk. But a higher weight amplifies them: more material means a smoother gliding surface for your hair, better hold over time, and a fabric that stays flawless where a thin silk eventually stretches and shows wear.

19, 22, 25, 30 mommes: the guide to navigating them

Less than 19 mommes Entry-level silk, often used for linings or light scarves. For a pillowcase intended for daily use, this is insufficient: its lifespan will be short.

19 to 22 mommes The quality standard for silk sleepwear. At 22 mommes, you have an excellent balance of softness, resistance, and price. This is the weight of our classic collection, designed for durable daily use.

25 mommes The intermediate level of the high-end, rarer on the market.

30 mommes The pinnacle of what is made in sleepwear. Reserved for the finest qualities of mulberry silk, this is the weight of our Prestige collection: exceptional density, a sumptuous drape, and maximum longevity. This is the silk you pass down, not the one you replace.

Beware of silk without a displayed weight

One tell-tale sign: brands selling genuine quality silk always display their weight. If a product description remains vague, just saying "100% silk" without further specification, or worse, "silk satin"—which sometimes refers to simple polyester woven in a satin weave—be suspicious. Momme is to the silk seller what vintage is to the winemaker: when you are proud of it, you write it in big letters.

Also check the grade of the silk: the mention 6A denotes the longest and most uniform fibers, those that produce the smoothest and most resistant fabrics. High weight + grade 6A + mulberry silk: that is the winning trio.

22 or 30 mommes: which one to choose?

It all depends on what you are looking for.

Choose 22 mommes if you are discovering silk and want an excellent value for money for daily use. You will enjoy all the benefits of grade 6A mulberry silk, with good durability.

Choose 30 mommes if you want the best there is: maximum density, the most voluptuous feel, and the longest lifespan. It is also the most sensible choice in the long run—a well-maintained Prestige pillowcase will accompany you for years, where you would otherwise need to replace several lighter pillowcases.

In both cases, you are sleeping on genuine mulberry silk. The difference lies in the intensity of the experience and how long it will last.

Key takeaways

The momme is the number one objective criterion for judging silk: it measures its density, and therefore its durability, feel, and drape. Below 19 mommes, skip it. At 22 mommes, you have a safe bet for every day. At 30 mommes, you are reaching the pinnacle of the material. Now that you know how to read labels, it's up to you to choose your silk with full knowledge of the facts.